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Beirut Roots

A pro to staying in the education world is that you're pretty acclimated to the way your breaks work and how to pace (and stretch) your endurance. Half term came just in time and while it was a close call, I am happy to say that I spent it in Beirut.

Long story short the Civil ID process in Kuwait held me in a state of suspension. The school holding my passport hostage as the ID was processed and issued.

Beirut had been decided on a few weeks ago, as I was to travel with a few of my friends. It felt as though I was constantly holding my breath as I prayed the passport would arrive Tuesday and I could book a last minute flight and be off on my Lebanese adventure.

Small background: I have Lebanese heritage and my dad currently found some long lost family that really shed light on that side of me and made it more present. I was eager to go to Lebanon because that was the only country I had heritage in that I hadn't visited yet (Ireland and Italy being the other, both visited twice now).

In hindsight, I put a lot of pressure on my first trip but I had my fingers crossed that it was meant to be.

The passport didn't come on Tuesday. I watched my friends leave for the airport and feeling a bit dejected I knew no matter what, one day I'd make it to Beirut.

The call came around 10am Wednesday morning: my passport was ready. After a moment of weakness I contemplated just skipping out, that it wasn't worth it. Good friends and the realization that living spontaneously and buying that last minute plane ticket are some of the experiences I'm looking for. That, and I knew I wouldn't regret it.

I packed in 30 minutes, rushed to pick up my passport and went right to the airport. I was on a flight at 18:30, on my way to the country I never thought I'd get to see.

The trip was easy and I had exchanged money and was in a taxi to the hotel in no time (shout out to my parents for making me a good traveler). My friends celebrated my arrival and we got dressed up looking for the Lebanese food experience of a lifetime.

We found it.

The hotel recommended a restaurant called Em Sherif. we were glad to have dressed up as we walked into a glamorous venue complete with suits and ties. We were offered a table upstairs and we began our 33 dish meal of absolutely delicious food. We kept eating without understanding how it was physically possible to still be putting food inside our stomachs. It was quite the splurge but worth every penny as my first evening was full of laughter, friendship, some refreshing wine, and amazing food.

In spite of our 7am wake up call we rolled into our beds close to 1am and daylight came all too soon.

Our hotel, however, was located right on the coast and waking up on the Mediterranean sea tends to put one in good spirits. The water was bold and blue surrounded by lush green.

I was no longer in the Kuwaiti desert.

Our first tour was a day tour to 3 locations. The first was the Jeita Grotts. Absolutely breathtaking caves full of stalagmites. You aren't allowed to take photos of the caves any more but to give you context that spot would be at the top of my recommendation list were you to find yourself in Beirut. The upper cave was a short trail that took you back into the vast caverns. Winding in and out of history itself, like a natural cathedral carved patiently by time itself (and water). The lower cave was a small boat ride that took you on an up close and personal look at some of the formations closer to the water level.

The second stop was to an old fishing town named Byblos. While the town had modernized we took a tour of some of the ancient ruins including a museum built inside one of the remaining guard towers. The view was incredibly from the top and the traditional (though a bit touristy) market place next to it produced the right vibe for a relaxing afternoon.

The last stop was to Harissa, home of the Lady of Lebanon. A large statue of the Virgin Mary facing the sea. You can climb to the top, walk around the park below, and see inside the church next to the monument. High up on in the cliffs the views of the sea kept coming. We even got to enjoy a gondola ride from the bottom street.

As the evening drew to a close and we began our ride back to Beirut I was thrilled with the activity and adventure, so content to be in such a beautiful place. I knew then if I could I'd take my father to Beirut someday.

That evening was a bit more lowkey with another early morning start the next day. Friday's itinerary included a trip to the ancient city ruins of Anjar, over in the eastern part of the country. The ruins were full of history but my favorite part was actually being able to explore them. Climbing up the stairs of the city walls, peeking into the still standing shops and homes. It was the opportunity to feel apart of the history, not a keep off sign in sight.

It won major brownies points, being the history nerd I am.

Baalbeck was stop number too, a very well known tourist spot when visiting Lebanon. Baalbeck is described as one of the most ancient cities in the world. We took a tour inside the Roman temple of Jupiter. The sheer vastness was one thing, but how well it was preserved was another. More than 15 feet excavated to reveal intricate statues and carvings. Again, with no keep off signs in sight I was in heaven frolicking amongst the ghosts of history.

All too soon it was time for the final stop to Ksara, a winery unique for its underground tunnels for wine storage. The short but satisfying tour and wine tasting was a nice topper for another action packed day.

The adventure was far from over as we spent the night on the town from the bar to the club investigating all the talk of "Beirut nightlife". It did not disappoint and was another successful evening out with good company but with an even later clock in at 3 am.

I was content as I road to the airport, however. Taking in my last glimpses of the Mediterranean before trading them in for the Gulf. I wish I had that day I missed to explore the city a bit more but I accomplished my goal of visiting Lebanon. A living piece of it now rests in me and I have this feeling that I will be seeing it again.


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