Two Days in the "Golden City"

Shannon O'Leary
Apr 9, 2017
7 min read

Prague had been my most anticipated trip since I booked the flight back in January. Right at the start of my semester abroad.

Flash back to 7th grade geography class when everyone was given a city from all over the world to research and present to the class. Three guesses for the city I was assigned to. You got it: Prague.

I remember researching the city, seeing pictures, reading people's opinions. While I cannot exactly remember how and what I specifically talked about during those five minutes in front of the class I do remember my answer to one question we had to answer: if we would want to visit our city.

I explained to my class that this was a beautiful city and that I very much wanted to visit it when I was older.

It seems so plain writing it down, it's hard to explain the feeling of a dream being born. While I'm sure my 7th grade intentions were pure in wanting to visit it was only a seed, planted my mild internet research and some beautiful buildings. As I got older I kept my commitment of wanting to visit the historical capital of Bohemia and the seed began to grow.

When I got on the plane to the Czech capital on Thursday night, it didn't seem real. Luckily I was able to enjoy the journey as I am much more comfortable traveling alone, planning for flights and travel. I wasn't nervous.

Prague (Praha in Czech), is the 14th largest city in the European Union and the fifth most visited European city. Prague is remarkable, in part, due to the fact the city has avoid the destruction that many others have faced throughout history. It's building, from multiple eras, remain in tack and perfectly preserved. It is also flexible and shifting, adding the modern touches and entertainment that contribute to a thriving night life.

I got off the plane around 21:40 and immediately changed over some money (on the recommendation of a friend). Being a nerd about currency I observed my new Czech Crowns. For comparison 50 Crowns is about 2 Euro. The currency works in higher numbers and while there are coins there is no "change". You won't see anything for 100 crowns and 50 cents.

As required the first thing I got to buy was a less than fabulous public transportation ticket that would get me to my hostel close to the Charles River.

Finally, about forty minutes later I was walking into Hostel Santini Prague. Unlike my hostel in Sicily, this one felt like a hotel with polished floors and (original) hand painted ceilings. Tired from the journey I hopped into bed to be rested for my full day tour of the city in the morning.

Of course, nothing can always go according to plan. After a rocky start to even get on my tour bus thanks to missed pick ups, missing buses, and unclear phone calls. I jumped off the rainy street corner onto my tour bus and the day was only good from there.

I had felt breathless since getting off the plane the night before, even seeing the city in the dark and walking into my hostel had been an internally emotional experience. Because I was really in Prague, the city I had been wanting to visit for ten years. Even the rain didn't bring me down from my high.

The bus was really just to bring us to the top of the city, to Prague Castle, and we would walk our way down, through the sites to the Vltava river. After one more set back of a broken metal detector at security, we walked through the castle gardens, noting one of the homes of the president as well as our first views of the St. Vitus Cathedral. Built in the Gothic style it is the largest and most important cathedral in the country. It is located on the Prague Castle complex and is the final resting place of many Bohemia kings and Holy Roman Emperors. We also witnessed the changing of the Royal Guard and ate a delicious three course traditional Czech meal on the castle grounds. Lunch is where I first met the people who would become my friends. Two from Australia and one from California. We enjoyed a lunch of getting to know each other and sharing our love of travel through reminiscing about some of our favorite adventures.

The rain was on and off as we descended from the top of the hill back down towards the Charles Bridge. The bridge was beautiful, wide with an array of 30 statues in the Baroque style that lead to the Old Town Bridge Tower at the end. The views of the river were lovely even in the rain and we pushed onward to the Charles Bridge Museum on the side of the Old Town where we would get on our boat tour.

The tour was a toasty break from the rain. The boat complete with a heater, glass roof and walls, and refreshments. The hour long meandering around the river lent itself some views of important buildings such as the Royal Theater, a trip down the canals of Prague's "Little Venice", a view of the only waterfront access in the city, and, of course, the Charles Bridge.

Our last stop was a short walk to the Old Town Center to get a glimpse of the Astronomical Clock strike the new hour. It is at the top of the hour that two small windows on either side of the clock face open and each of the Twelve disciples poke their heads out before the windows close again. It is quite the spectacle, drawing crowds before hand to ensure a good spot. In addition to this feat the clock is also a work of art. Built in 1410 it is the third oldest astronomical clock and the worlds oldest that is still operating.

The tour ended there but the small group I had made (including new friends from Ireland/Maryland) stuck together to find dinner. We made our way to the Imperial Cafe and after being informed there was no room for 7 at 7:00 pm we elected to an early dinner at 5:30 to ensure we all stayed together. While I have become more comfortable traveling alone, I take after my father in that I enjoy meeting and talking to new people. I had a traditional meal of braised beef in a delicious sauce and we all shared a spoonful of a dessert called the "Chocolate Bomb". The end of the night was touching as the gentleman who lives in Ireland graciously paid for the entire dinner. The fact that he payed for 7 strangers filled my heart and I hope one day I can pay it forward.

As we began to part ways it was incredible to be offered invitations to Ireland and Australia and connecting with these friends on social media. The network you can create by seeing the world is incredible. Like calls to like and I enjoyed spending the evening with people who love to see the world as much as I do.

On my way back through the Old Town I meandered through the market, lit up and decorated for Easter, with what remained of our group. I tried my first trdelnik. Though originally from Transylvania the dessert is a staple in Prague. It is a circular pastry covered in cinnamon, similar to a hardened fried dough. There are many variations, I stuck with it being filled with ice cream and whipped cream.

My full day lead to a great nights sleep and to my surprise I awoke the next morning to sunshine.

My flight being later in the day I took the opportunity to revisit and rephotograph many of the sites I had seen yesterday. Though by 10 o'clock I had appreciated the rainy day even more. Everything was about 10x busier and people seemed to appear out of no where. It made me feel like I had gotten a quieter, more private look at the city the day before. The Bridge had been empty, the city quietly standing in all it's beauty. Now that the sun was out it felt much more like a tourist destination.

Regardless I enjoyed every movement wandering and shopping through the Old Town and my heart grew heavy as the afternoon pushed on.

The journey home was standard but I am still lost in my Czech fairy tale. Having something crossed off your bucket-list is a very fulfilling feeling. I am thankful that Prague lived up to everything I had built it up to be over these ten years. Though, to be honest, it never crossed my mind that it would be anything but incredible.

I am thankful for my short visit, while I was there I felt lighter and at peace. We spend so much time dreaming and when we get to live out one of those dreams, no matter how big or small, I think it refreshes us in more than one way. Amidst my impending graduation, getting a job, considering the "real world" that awaits beyond my return, it was good for my heart and my head to just breathe.

At the hostel I met a young man who asked me where I would go in the world if I could choose anywhere and the irony hit me. For ten years my answer had been Prague. However, the more I travel the more I just want to see. Things, places, cultures, people. There is no definite top ten list and that is okay with me. It's valuable, I think, because without being overly focused on one place you're open to places you may have never thought to visit.

With any luck, I will continue to see more of the world. But Prague will always be special and the feeling of wanting to return there is different than how I want to return to almost all the places I've visited. It is quiet and soft, like it cares about me too. As if it knows all the years I waited for it and when I came, and the city knew I was there. And now, Prague has promised to wait for me, like I had waited for Prague.